Il Sanlorenzo

"Il faut être leger comme l’oiseau et non comme la plume.“ (You need to be as light as a bird, not as a feather.) This line by Paul Valèry graces the menu at the Il Sanlorenzo. Instead of proceeding straight to the large selection of fish and crustaceans, we muse about the quote by the French writer, and eventually agree on its import: While the nearly weightless feather is tossed about nilly-willy by the storm wind, the bird effortlessly rides out even the gusty winds despite its much greater weight. Having sorted that out, we head for the extremely well-appointed seafood counter in the entrance area. Every day, fresh catch is delivered to owner Enrico Pierry from the celeb island of Ponza south of Rome and from the fish mongers of Civitavecchia, and he presents the day's catch with pride. We start with a yellowtail and are amazed how this rather inconspicuous fish proves a gustatory revelation when combined with veggies. Another culinary sensation is the liaison of swordfish with fresh porcino mushrooms. Our favourite: Go for the "Poor Fish Menu," and you will experience one surprise after another. Closed on: All day Sundays, and lunch hours on Saturdays and Mondays.