The French Art of Seduction – Come to Alsace for the Holiday Season
The scent of mulled wine, gingerbread and glazed almonds fills the air: It is the time of Christmas markets up and down the land. But there are none as sparkly as those in Alsace, especially in Strasbourg, the city which calls itself the “Capitale de Noël” and which has hosted the legendary “Christkindelsmärik” since 1570. Let yourself be enchanted by the Yuletide charms of Alsace. As for us, we've just returned from our tour of the region and would love to share our favourite destinations with you – meaning those that left a lasting impression.
10 Tips for a Perfect Weekend in Alsace
Tip no. 1: Villa René Lalique – Homage to the Famous Glass Artist
As you climb the black stairway inside the Villa René Lalique, you will discover original photographs of the mansion as well as of René Lalique himself and his family. Down to the very details, the painstakingly converted mansion celebrates the legacy of jewellery and glass artist René Lalique. The posh themed suites are decorated in the style of the Art Déco, featuring furniture and crystal objects by Maison Lalique. Each of the six suites is different, and each commemorates the name of an original work by the famed glass artist.
Tip no. 2: Les Haras – Rare Saddle Leather above the Bed
Feel like staying within strolling distance of the Christmas market? The elegant design hotel Les Haras inside the buildings of Strasbourg's former royal livery stable is a delight not just for equestrians. All rooms have been designed by the celebrated designers / architects Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku in a style both casual and informal. The two did a truly fine job incorporating historic elements in their refurbishment. You will find yourself sitting on stools resembling saddle rests, while finest leather covers the walls above the headboards, made by the very same manufacturer that also supplies Hermès.
Tip no. 3: Brasserie Les Haras – Modern and Cosmopolitan
It's an absolute treat to dine in the former hayloft, beneath the exposed roof truss. In the show kitchen you get to watch chef François Baur and his crew at work. French classics and Alsatian specialities are reinterpreted with a modern twist. The mastermind behind Brasserie Les Haras is 3-star chef Marc Haeberlin.
Tip no. 4: Du Côté De Chez Anne – French Chic Next Door
Staying here does not feel like a hotel, but as if a close friend with impeccable taste was putting you up for the night. Rather than being numbered, the five rooms at the Du Côté De Chez Anne are named after flowers. We took a particular liking to the corner room “Pivoine.” This, the “peonies” room is perfectly peaceful, with a green view.
Tip no. 5: Restaurant “1741” – Youthfully Glamorous
The French cuisine is experiencing a grand renaissance. The restaurant's name commemorates the year the Palais Rohan across from it was completed: 1741. We say it's a “must-do” for any connoisseur of modern French cuisine. For this little restaurant called 1741 in the heart of Strasbourg was taken over by none lesser than Olivier Nasti, the renowned two-star chef from Kaysersberg, in February 2014. Manning the helm in the kitchen is a young native of Alsace, Guillaume Scheer, who has worked with Olivier Nasti since 2010.
Tip no. 6: Au Crocodile – Rebirth of a Legend
The “Grison” room at the restaurant Au Crocodile in Strasbourg
Dozens of chefs have worked the kitchen of the legendary Au Crocodile and reached for the Michelin stars. But it was not until Émile Jung took charge that the restaurant was awarded three stars in 1989. It marked the apex of the restaurant's fortunes, which has been in decline since. Yet the present chef, Ludovic Kientz, knows the place inside out, for he was trained by Émile Jung himself. 2015 marked the beginning of a new chapter in the annals of the Crocodile, and the future looks bright, as reflected in the 2017 rating of one Michelin star.
Tip no. 7: Le Moulin – Romantic Mill House Hideaway
Ready to head for the countryside? Le Moulin is a romantic hideaway for gourmets, nature lovers and anyone ready to travel back in time to your childhood and the fairy-tale world of Hansel and Gretel.
Tip no. 8: Auberge de L’Ill – for Lovers of Fine Food and all Things Beautiful
Since 1967, three Michelin stars have continuously sparkled above the Auberge de l'Ill. Marc Haeberlin applies a light touch as he upholds the fine tradition of the regional Alsatian cuisine. He skilfully combines its rustic components with elegance, and its simplicity with finesse. Be sure to try his declination of langustine and the “Mac Marc” with porcini mushrooms and duck liver, and you'll understand and probably share our enthusiasm.
Tip no. 9: Hotel des Berges – Your Riverside Retreat
A far cry from stereotypical Alsatian quaintness, the Hotel des Berges in the hamlet of Illhäusern is a delightful alternative to colourful half-timbered houses and their kitschy doll house ambiance. This past summe, the hotel opened a spa and five new junior suites – a modern interpretation of the Alsatian farmhouse, designed by a celebrated pair of architects, Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku.
Tip no. 10: Christine Ferber – Queen of Jams
North of Colmar, far from the hustle and bustle of the city and from the tourist sights, you will find the sleepy little hamlet of Niedermorschwihr. The place is known far beyond the region for its jams. A master in this craft, pastry chef Christine Ferber prepares jams for gourmets and celebrated chefs. Alain Ducasse swears by her products. Popular flavour combinations include strawberry with pepper and mint, rose hips with orange, or blueberry with liquorice. Our favourite flavour this season: minced apple with caramel. Even Harrods stocks her jams, but of course the nicest place to shop for them is at the queen of jams' herself.
Ready for more? We have compiled 325 unique hotel and restaurant tips for you on pillowandpepper.com – each one of them tested in person, on location.
We hope you enjoy planning your next trip, and want you to have a splendid pre-holiday season in Alsace or another favourite destination – the main thing being that you have a good time.