Trading the Umbrella for a Straw Hat
Tuscany is a coveted destination not just for wine lovers, culture buffs and connoisseurs of the “Cucina Casalinga” – or Italian country cuisine. September is also a great time of year for sun worshippers to visit. The sea retains a pleasant warmth from the summer months, and you need not to make reservations weeks in advance to get to lounge in your favourite front-row “bagno.” A wonderfully elegant thing to do is to travel in a vintage Fiat 500 from Florence all the way to the Mediterranean via Arezzo, Montepulciano and Siena, and to explore the beauty of Tuscany on the way.
10 Tips for a Dream Holiday in Tuscany:
Tip no. 1: Locanda al Colle – Elegant Guest House between Olive Trees and Seashore
No reception, no concierge, not even room numbers – but nine rooms and suites decorated in impeccable style, and bearing resonant names such as “Aurora,” “Orrizonte,” or “Cipresso.” The venue is surrounded by a manicured garden complete with pool. The interior decoration of the elegant Locanda al Colle is characterised by its closely coordinated arrangement of contemporary sculptures, lamps, retro-chic furniture, bouquets of fresh roses, and sensuous home fragrances by Diptyque.
Tip no. 2: L’Orsa Maggiore – Your Best Bet on the Beach at Lunch or Dinner Time!
L’Orsa Maggiore, Forte dei Marmi
The “bagno” or lido is an Italian institution. Every Italian has a favourite “bagno” to which he or she remains loyal over years and decades. If you buy a season ticket, you will get to use the same “Tenda” (sun tent), and many of the regulars wear matching bathing accessories they picked in the colours of “their bagno” in order to cut a dashing figure or “bella figura.” We, by contrast, were plagued by curiosity, and tried a different “bagno” each day of the week that we spent in Forte dei Marmi. For us, the winner of 2015 was: L’Orsa Maggiore. We just love the pleasant shabby-chic ambience and the delicious cuisine.
Tip no. 3: Villa Grey – a Modern Version of Your Dream Villa
Villa Grey is a good place to take in sun and sea breeze in style. Opened in 2011, this 4-star boutique hotel represents a refreshing change from the many dated hotel structures in the glamorous beach community of Forte dei Marmi. Whitewashed in silver grey on the outside, the beach front villa presents itself indoors with an elegant modern interior in hues of white and grey, and a vibrant lifestyle feeling.
Tip no. 4: Relais Sant’ Elena – a Gem for Landscape Enthusiasts and Wine Lovers
The Tuscan country cottage of your dreams! Siblings Moira and Manoli Rossi Ciampolini converted the family's long-neglected country estate “Tenuta Gardini” into a charming hide-away. From the Relais Sant’ Elena, it is only 8 km to the world-renowned wine village of Bolgheri, home of the Super Tuscans.
Tip no. 5: Tenuta Le Macchiole – Grand Autochthonous Wines
Just outside Ornellaia lies the small winery Le Macchiole. Here, Cinzia Merli and her 20 employees produce five varieties of wine, including three premium ones – Paleo (a 100% Cabernet Franc), Scrio (100% Syrah), and Messorio (100% Merlot) – that need not fear comparison with the great names in the neighbourhood. Tour of the cellar including wine tasting by appointment.
Tip no. 6: Life at the Winery – Conti di San Bonifacio
If you roam the vineyard and wine cellar, you may find yourself thinking about buying a piece of land in this idyllic region, and becoming a wine maker in your own right. The small country hotel Conti di San Bonifacio at the eponymous winery (7 hectares) is a true gem with its seven rooms, and high-end wines.
Tip no. 7: Like Italy in the 1960s: La Pineta di Zazzari
From the outside, the venue is an inconspicuous wooden shack on the beach, while inside elegantly decked tables await the guests. The Pineta by Luciano Zazzari is a charming mix of lido, fish vendor, and gourmet restaurant.
Tip no. 8: Villa Bordoni – Rooms to Fall in Love with
An elegantly refurbished mansion, radiating playful cosiness. You will simply not get enough of the tongue-in-cheek blend of styles from Tuscany, Southern England and the Provence. Villa Bordoni is true paradise for interior-design enthusiasts and those who love today's country cottage syle – right in the heart of the Chianti hills.
Tip no. 9: Relais Borgo Santo Pietro – A Destination for Aesthetes
Situated inside an impressively groomed garden estate (6 hectares) with a large pond, fragrant rose bushes, a cypress avenue, and manicured boxwoods lies the Relais Borgo Santo Pietro. The sprawling garden has more lush corners and retreats than the hotel room – before long, you will have picked a favourite spot.
Tip no. 10: La Bottega del Buon Caffè – a New Star Sparkling in the Gourmet Skies above Florence
The new restaurant of Jeannette and Claus Thottrup in Florence is every bit as elegant as their Hotel Relais Borgo Santo Pietro just outside Chiusdino. Its young chef, Antonello Sardi, almost instantly scored a Michelin star with his modern Tuscan dishes, served at the restaurant La Bottega del Buon Caffè.
Ready for more? We have compiled 29 hotel and restaurant tips in Tuscany for you on pillowandpepper.com – each one of them tested in person, on location.
We hope you have a wonderful time planning the perfect trip, and an even lovelier time in Tuscany!