Pillow Talk with Vincenzo Martella
No matter where you turn in this place, you will always behold a picture-book version of Tuscany. And from the infinity pool at the Borgo Pignano, you have a grandiose view across rolling hills and the cities of San Gimignano and Volterra all the way to the sea. Meanwhile behind the thick castle walls, time-honoured ingredients go into sophisticated delicacies that would actually be worth a trip in their own right.
There are dishes that you will simply never forget. One of them features the paper-thin ravioli filled with tomatoes and served with smoked amber jack and burrata that we sampled at Borgo Pignano. The chef here, Vincenzo Martella, is committed to a light cuisine. He talked to us about the art of cooking and his love for Tuscany, while also honing our own pasta skills during one of the cooking classes he teaches, and actually sharing his precious ravioli recipe with us.
Joanna Peyer for Pillow & Pepper: Vincenzo, where does your passion for cooking come from?
Vincenzo Martella: From a very early age, I loved to cook; I remember making simple things when I was a child. My parents wanted me to train for a ‘proper’ career as a doctor or lawyer but I always had a natural interest in food, flavours and cooking. It was not easy to persuade them that I wanted to become a chef. I grew up in Puglia which offers a wealth of fantastic ingredients that are full of flavour, particularly the fresh fish. From the very beginning of my career I had a great passion for cooking and exploring the link between good food and wellbeing; it gives me the greatest satisfaction.
Which people in your life inspired your cooking in general?
Vincenzo Martella: When I was young, my grandparents and parents taught me to appreciate fresh ingredients, and I have fond memories of visiting the local markets and being shown how to select the best vegetables and fruits, all harvested just hours earlier. It is this attitude to food and the enthusiasm of people that I respect. For example, I have been deeply impressed by chefs who share the same contemplative food philosophy, such as Michel Bras and René Redzepi.
Which ingredient could you not imagine cooking without?
Vincenzo Martella: A meal does not necessarily have to include meat or fish, but freshly harvested vegetables are essential, in my opinion.
What is the most elaborate dish you make?
Vincenzo Martella: One of the most symbolic of my dishes represents the land on which Borgo Pignano has stood for centuries. A beautiful dessert dish that captures the essence of the forest. A delicate chocolate sponge (the land), fruits of the forest (strawberries, blackberries) pine nuts and pine-scented infused chocolate. Most of my dishes have a tangible link to the land.
Where do you find the inspiration for new dishes?
Vincenzo Martella: A walk around the estate always fills me with new and surprising inspirations. I'm also inspired by talking to my suppliers, such as the fishermen who bring their daily catch from the Island of Elba just off the Tuscan Coast. Then there are the truffle hunters, the local butchers, and of course, as the seasons change so do my ideas. I work very closely with the ‘Ortalana’ (kitchen gardener) here at Borgo Pignano. We plan our menus according to what ingredients are at their very freshest and most delicious. The ingredients grown at Pignano are all natural and organic and therefore have intrinsic health benefits. When creating a new menu, I am always thinking about feeding the mind, body and soul.
Did you ever regret becoming a chef? What would your alternative be?
Vincenzo Martella: This culinary journey has been a great challenge for me, and I continue to push myself to achieve the very highest standards every single day. Yet, food, nature, and gastronomy are in my blood. If I had to choose another career, I would enjoy the idea of making documentaries about wildlife.
What do you love most about Tuscany?
Vincenzo Martella: I have lived in Tuscany for 7 years and have been Chef de Cuisine at Borgo Pignano for 2 years. I love the light here and the dramatic contrasts in the terrain all around me. The flavours, of course, are also unmistakable, and Tuscany has got to be one of the most magical places to live if you are a lover of good food. The terrain at Pignano has its own unique appeal, and the fertility of the land means I am fortunate to have the very best ingredients right around me.
What kind of dish should we try while in Tuscany?
Vincenzo Martella: If you are staying in Tuscany and visiting the cities or smaller hilltop fortress towns you really should try some of the regional specialities such as the Trippa Fiorentina (Florentine Tripe), Crostini di Fegato di Pollo (chicken liver pate Crostini), homemade Salamis and the Cinghiale Dolce e Forte (wild boar in sweet and strong sauce with cocoa).
What should visitors to Italy avoid doing in restaurants if they do not wish to stick out as tourists?
Vincenzo Martella: I suggest asking the waiter for his recommendations, such as the menu of the day or the fresh fish of the day; research what is in season during your stay, and buy local. Don’t order too many dishes, and be sure to sit inside on hot days. No Tuscan would eat outside on a hot summer day.
On pillowandpepper.com we will share the numbers of the best rooms at the Borgo Pignano and another 20 unique destinations in Tuscany with you. Let us inspire you, for Tuscany is always worth a trip.