A Culinary Field Trip to Alsace
Brace yourself for the scent of mulled wine, gingerbread and glazed almonds: Brightly lit Christmas Markets are opening all over the place. The prettiest of all, though, you will find in the Alsace, especially in Strasbourg, the city which calls itself the “Capitale de Noël” and which has hosted the legendary “Christkindelsmärik” since 1570.
Discover the enchantment of the Alsatian Christmas season, enjoy French dining at its finest, and sleep like a prince in the new hotels we meant to show you. For we've just returned from our tour of the region and would love to share the finest venues with you, meaning only those that made a lasting impression on us.
7 Tips for a Perfect Weekend in Alsace
Tip 1
Feel like staying within walking distance of the Christmas Market? The new design hotel Les Haras is lodged in the buildings of Strasbourg's former royal livery stable and it is a delight not just for horse lovers. All rooms have been designed by the celebrated designers / architects Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku, who chose a style both casual and informal. The two did a truly fine job incorporating historic elements in their refurbishment. You'll sit on stools resembling saddle rests, while finest leather covers the walls above the headboards, made by the very same manufacturer that also supplies Hermès.
Tip 2
This is something Strasbourg has long waited for: a stylish brasserie that captures the spirit of our day and age. It’s an absolute treat to dine on the former hayloft, beneath the exposed roof truss. In the show kitchen you get to watch chef François Baur and his crew at work. French classics and Alsatian specialities are reinterpreted with a modern twist. This fall, the Brasserie Les Haras, run by three-star-chef Marc Haeberlin, was awarded the prize for the best design restaurant in the world among 860 competitors from 60 countries at the 2014 Restaurant & Bar Design Awards in London. A first for a French restaurant!
Tip 3
The restaurant's name commemorates the year the Palais Rohan across from it was completed: 1741. We say it's a "must-do" for any connoisseur of the modern French cuisine. For this little restaurant called 1741 in the heart of Strasbourg was taken over by no lesser than Olivier Nasti, the renowned two-star chef from Kaysersberg, in February 2014.
Tip 4
Ready to head for the countryside? Le Moulin is a romantic hideaway for gourmets, nature lovers and anyone ready to travel back in time to the nearly forgotten fairy-tale world of Hansel and Gretel.
Tip 5
Since 1967, three Michelin stars have kept sparkling above the Auberge de l'Ill. Marc Haeberlin applies a light touch as he upholds the fine tradition of the regional Alsatian cuisine. He skilfully combines its rustic components with elegance, and its simplicity with finesse. Be sure to try his declination of langustine and the "Mac Marc" with porcini mushrooms and duck liver, and you'll understand or even share our enthusiasm.
Tip 6
Most gourmets would be loath to miss goose liver on their dining table come Yuletide. Food scouts agree – for the most tender and most pungent foie gras, you must go see Georges Bruck in Strasbourg. It is also a great gift to take home or a nice Christmas present.
Tip 7
North of Colmar, far from the hustle and bustle of the city and from the tourist sights, you will find the sleepy little hamlet of Niedermorschwihr. The place is known far beyond the region for its jams. A master in this craft, pastry chef Christine Ferber prepares jams for gourmets and celebrated chefs. Alain Ducasse swears by her products. Popular flavour combinations include strawberry with pepper and mint, rose hips with orange, or blueberry with liquorice. Our favourite flavour this season: minced apple with caramel. Even Harrod's has lately started to stock her jams, but of course the nicest place to shop for them is at the queen of jams' herself.
Ready for more? We have compiled 8 hotel and restaurant recommendations in Alsace for you – each one of them tested in person, on location.
We wish you much excitement planning your next trip and yet more pleasure on the road! And of course happy holidays!