The Prima Donna of Truffles
The Piedmont in Northern Italy has just succumbed to the truffle fever again. Between now and Christmas, white truffles are all that anyone in the Langhe region and its capital Alba cares about. For this is where the precious object of desire and refinement, the white truffle species tuber magnatum pico, grows underground and in the wild only. All attempts to cultivate the truffle have failed so far. So it arguably qualifies as one of the last remaining marks of distinction for the true gourmet.
The white truffle found around Alba has an intoxicating scent with a light note of garlic. Fruiting between October and January, it has a smooth surface and a nearly golden hue. In the late afternoon, the truffle hunters, called “trifolai piemontesi”, and their dogs set out to scour the slopes of Langhe. The use of truffle pigs is prohibited in Italy because they damage the root tips when digging them out. Another reason to use dogs instead of hogs is the latter's very own passion for truffles, which makes them hard to handle whenever they “strike gold.” Dogs, by contrast, will limit their excitement over a find to a wagging tail, and soon after, the trifolao will hold the tuber in his hands, wrapping it in a cloth to preserve its aroma.
By the way, truffles should be eaten fresh, because they will start shrinking and losing weight steadily as early as two or three days after being harvested. So don’t trifle with truffles: off to the Piedmont with you!
6 Truffle Tips for a Perfect Weekend in the Piedmont:
Tip 1
If you don't expect to find truffles on your own, but would like to experience a truffle hunt live, you may go on a guided tour organised daily during the truffle season by the Centro Nazionale Studi Tartufo.
Tip 2
Feel like starting the day with truffles? At the delightful B&B Le Due Matote, Constanza serves fried eggs with truffle for breakfast. This is one of those locations you might actually wish to keep a secret. Here in the authentic Piedmont hamlet of Bossolasco in the Alta Langa sub-region, Costanza and Andrea Monaco created a romantic gem in "vintage chic" style that is positively spewing finesse and charm.
Tip 3
A picture-postcard setting without equal! The Relais San Maurizio commands a serene 360-degree view across the gently sloping hills and vineyards of the Langhe region. The vaulted cellar of the former Cistercian monastery is rented to the Guido da Costigliole, a restaurant of long-standing tradition. Luca Zecchin is upholding the legacy of Lidia and Guido Alciati in the kitchen, and has been awarded one Michelin star for his culinary craft. Aside from the delicious truffle dishes, be sure to try the “Plin Agnolotti al tovagliolo,” small creased ravioli served in a napkin – a homage to Lidia.
Tip 4
Celebrated winemaker Angelo Gaja shared his favourite way of having truffle with us: freshly grated over a poached egg topped with creamy fonduta. The best fonduta from melted Fontina cheese, with a dash of egg yolk added, we sampled at the Trattoria della Posta, above the village of Monforte d’Alba.
Tip 5
Splurging on Truffles with a Trifolao! The Tra Arte e Querce is a little trattoria tucked away in the hamlet of Monchiero. Ezio is one of the most renowned truffle hunters in the area, and goes truffle stalking twice a day during the season. Meanwhile, his wife Clelia is doing magic in the kitchen, creating the divine pasta and meat dishes over which Ezio will grate his “gold nuggets” come dinnertime. With no electronic scale in sight, you will see beaming faces all around you. You may take advantage of the rustic guest rooms above the restaurant and stay the night.
Tip 6
If you are planning to buy fresh truffles at auction on location, be sure to heed Ezio's advice and pay attention to freshness and size. “They should weigh no less than 30 grams, otherwise they won't keep as long.” So if you don't intend to consume your tuber right away, wrap it in some paper and store it in a plastic crisper at the bottom of your refrigerator. “Since a truffle needs to breathe, you should change the paper daily,” says Ezio.
Ready for more? We have compiled another 7 hotel and restaurant recommendations from the Piedmont for you – each one of them tested in person, on location.