Bordeaux for Connoisseurs
True to the old adage that “life is too short to drink bad wine,” we spent the past month on the road through the Bordeaux region. Not only did we discover several new lodging gems for you, but we also visited exciting wineries and learned to understand and embrace an old French paradox: The French are firmly convinced that wine has medicinal properties. Unsurprisingly, the French have the highest per-capita wine consumption in the world and one of the lowest rates of cardiovascular disease – why not blame it on the red wine or specifically on the polyphenols the grapes contain?
10 Tips for a Terrific Wine & Dine Weekend:
Tip no. 1: Immerse Yourself in Wine, Literally – Les Sources de Caudalie
Les Sources de Caudalie is a luxurious spa resort of village character located right next to the vineyards of the Château Smith Haut Lafitte. Architect Yves Collet drew his inspiration from fishermen's cottages on the Cap Ferret peninsula on the nearby Atlantic coast, making copious use of antique wood and limiting himself to natural materials. The best way to explore the sprawling estate, the surrounding vineyards and the picturesque landscape with grape vines extending far as the eye can see is probably by riding one of the hotel's bicycles. Wine is the underlying theme everywhere you go, even in the spa area. It is a great place for slowing down – by submitting to the famous vinotherapy using the hotel's own Caudalie brand of cosmetics.
Tip no. 2: Princess for a While at Château Le Thil
Well hidden behind a massive iron gate lies this historic estate from 1737, once the summer residence of Bordeaux's governor Lodi Duffour-Dubergier. No expanse was spared to refurbish the manor, Château Le Thil. Antiques mingle with modern furniture in perfect harmony. The guest rooms are decorated with beautiful floral-print wallpaper. The vine-over-swan theme on the wallpaper picks up on the imagery of the manor's vast park which even includes a pond.
Tip no. 3: A True Gem – Château Smith Haut Lafitte
The winery Château Smith Haut Lafitte ranks among the finest wines of the Pessac-Léognan appellation. The modern wine estate with its perfected wines is owned by the Cathiard family, who also owns the luxury hotel Les Sources de Caudalie right across the street. The hotel concierge will gladly organise private guided tours and wine tastings for you.
Tip no. 4: Hostellerie de Plaisance – Prettier than any Picture Postcard
The wine-growing region of Saint-Émilion and the quaint eponymous village have the scenic beauty of picture-postcard perfection. Not only do they look like France as you would imagine it, but their authenticity is actually protected – physically by a stone wall of many miles, and legally by their status as UNESCO World Heritage site. In the midst of this idyll, leaning against a limestone rock, you will find the Hostellerie de Plaisance. The elegant boutique hotel was built with the same brightly coloured limestone as the rest of the village. The colourful furniture in the lobby and in the restaurant contrasts handsomely with the limestone.
Tip no. 5: Living at a Winery: Les Belles Perdrix
The Bordeaux region is well known for its fine wines. Perhaps less known is the fact that some of the wineries provide fine lodgings as well. One of the most charming places to stay just outside Saint-Émilion is Les Belles Perdrix at the wine estate Château Troplong Mondot where Christine Valette-Pariente, formerly a journalist, operates an authentic country hotel with a touch of understatement in a building whose historic exterior dates back to 1745.
Tip no. 6: Rare Vintages – Château Troplong Mondot
Touring the vineyards and cellars will amaze you, and the most awesome thing will be the high quality of the wine. The grapes at Château Troplong Mondot are hand-picked according to strict criteria. The cultivation of the grape vines involves neither herbicides nor insecticides. The revision of the Saint-Émilion classification in 2006 caused Troplong-Mondot to rise to the “Premiers Grands Crus Classés” category. Today, the prestigious wine estate is a splendid place to wine and dine and daydream in style.
Tip no. 7: La Tupina – an Earthen Pot in Spanish, an Institution in Bordeaux
The first thing you will notice when entering La Tupina is the enormous hearth right next to the entrance, because it is large enough to walk right into it. Depending on the season, you may find a suckling pig or rack of lamb roasting on a spit there as if to inspire your menu choice. A huge wooden board in front of the hearth presents a buffet of diverse meats and sausage varieties along with brightly coloured regional produce. The scent emanating from this smorgasbord actually makes you want to stay and linger rather than taking your seat in the dining room.
Tip no. 8: A Picturesque Old Mill: Le Moulin du Roc
Delightful imperfection! There are hotels in this world that are just right precisely because they are not perfect at all, and one such case is the old mill on the banks of the Dronne River. The boutique hotel Le Moulin du Roc offers several cosy parlours characterised by massive wooden beams. The hotel has 15 maze-like rooms spread across three buildings. But we prefer to sit on the terrace close to the river, listening to the gently splashing mill wheel in the background.
Tip no. 9: The Hallowed Halls of Faugères
Château Faugères is a manor located near the hamlet of Saint-Émilion. In 2005, the wine estate was bought by the Swiss entrepreneur Silvio Denz. Assisted by the well-known enologist and adviser Michel Rolland, the château has been producing full-bodied wines of superior quality. Michel Rolland created the Péby-Faugères in 1998, a pure-blooded Merlot derived from the oldest vines at Château Faugères. In the year 2000, Robert Parker proclaimed this wine one of the 20 best Bordeaux wines under the headline “The Legend of the Future.” The grapes cultivated at Faugères on roughly 80 hectares include Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The vast wine cellar – a veritable cathedral – was designed by the celebrated Swiss architect Mario Botta. Visits at the wine cathedral by prior appointment only.
Tip no. 10: Grand Wines in a Refined Setting – Vignobles & Châteaux
If you have no time to organise your own château tour, take advantage of the tours offered by the well connected wine shop Vignobles & Châteaux in Saint-Émilion. Just as fascinating and informative are the private wine tastings of “1er grand cru classé” wines that Nicolas himself hosts in the elegant parlour of the wine shop.
Ready for more? We personally tested the most beautiful places in Europe – just for you! Explore more than 320 unique hotels and restaurants that we ourselves love to visit.
We hope you have lots of fun planning your next trip and yet more pleasure on the road!